VIENNA

Vienna.  The name conjures images of classical music, architecture, monarchies, art, and of course food.  We got back from our trip late on the 28^th, after having been there since the evening of the 24^th.  Upon our arrival, we hired the fellow who picked us up at the airport to give us a tour of the city at night.  Thus we could get reasonably oriented for the days ahead, as well as seeing some breath-taking displays of lights, statues, and buildings.  This was capped off by a quick snack at an Israeli restaurant.  Great stuff.  When we returned to our hotel, the Tabor, we told the desk clerk that we wanted to make some show reservations.  He was only too happy to take our money for the Spanish Riding School, featuring the Lippizanner Horses, the Vienna Boys Choir, and the Mozart Orchestra, which performs in costumes of the period of Mozart.

Bright and early the next morning, after breakfast, we were off to the Vienna Boys Choir at the Museum of Fine Arts.  The ensemble has been reduced somewhat since last I saw them.  They now have only twenty voices, along with their accompanist.  They are still the best in their field.  The hall in which they performed was just what one would expect of a Viennese concert hall.  Lots of gilt, busts, tapestries, etc.  The acoustics were fabulous.  After the concert, we headed out for something light to eat.  We found a terrific Thai restaurant very close to the theatre.

Thus fortified with great food, and incredible Austrian “Zipfer” beer, we headed to another wing of the museum, where there was a display of El Greco, Rembrandt, Breugel, and a number of other heavyweight painters.  It was wonderful, both inside and out.  From there, we caroused around town for a bit, and then made it to the Mozart concert, which was held at the “Musik Ferenzart.”  Words cannot describe the experience of the concert.  Not only was the thirty-one piece orchestra, with soloists, and opera singers flawless, but the visual impact was like something out of an old Technicolor extravaganza.  We were transported to another time and world.  Believe it, or not, it’s located at the corner of “Bosendorfer” and “Dumba” streets!   To cap off this orgy for the senses, we had a great dinner, complete with some of the finest wine either of us had ever had.  Thus ended our first day in this jewel of a city.

Up and at-em again in the morning to make it to the Lippizanner Horses, preceded by a short tour of the city, which included a trip to the Hundertwasser display.  One of the hippest parts of the display was the sign for the WC.  It read, “Toilet of Modern Art.”  One need not go further on that topic.  Finally we got to the Spanish Riding School, the home of the famed horses and watched them go through their paces.  It was really something.  The leaping, jumping, and pageantry was wonderfully orchestrated, if not a bit lengthy…Perhaps a bit of calf roping, bull riding, or bronco busting would have made it a bit livelier.

On we went, this time to the Schonbrun Palace.  This was, among other things, the home of Marie Antoinette, of  “Louis…We’re losing our heads” fame, and one of Mozart’s playgrounds.  It was an Austrian attempt at competing with Versailles, including the hall of mirrors, and Tuilleries.  Versailles won.  Nonetheless, it was interesting with its three-kilometer maze of hedges, and imitation Brandenburg Gate that overlooked the entire city…Great view, and marvelous Mozart coffee.  For those of you who saw  “Vera Cruz,” this was where the monarchy double-crossed Maximillian, while he was double-crossing Burt Lancaster, Gary Cooper, and their band of cutthroats.

This was capped off by a visit to the ferriswheel immortalized by Orson Welles in “The Third Man.”  Its name is Riesenrad.  It was built in 1897, and is still going strong…as well as very high.  After riding halfway to the moon on this incredible joy ride, we went in search of the ultimate “Schweinhaxe.”   This is a typical Deutsche dish, served with sauerkraut, and potatoes.  It’s like a huge pig thigh that is grilled.  If done correctly, it’s wonderful.  If not, it’s greasy, and a drag.  At the “Schweizerhaus,” it is done to perfection.  Thus they are known throughout Europe for this dish.  We were not disappointed.  The beer, once again, was fabulous.   During dinner, there was a loud crash.  Some glasses had fallen off of a tray, and “exploded” on the floor, sending shards of broken glass to cover approximately a six-foot circle on the floor.  As an unaware waiter approached, I yelled to him a warning to avoid the broken glass, and beer.  I said, “Look out, there is broken glass in front of you.”  In pure Peter Sellers style, he unflinchingly kicked most of it aside, and stated, “Not anymore!”

After watching the sun go down at the amusement park, Pratersheim, that houses the restaurant, and Riesenrad, it was time to head back to our hotel…Sundown was about 10:30 p.m.

Sunday began with a typical European breakfast of cholesterol and coffee, followed by a trip to the Jewish Museum in the Jewish ghetto.  The depiction of the 15^th Century slaughter of the Jewish population of the area was a bit disturbing.  It was like a “how to” blueprint for the Nazis.  From there we went to the Hapsburg Palace.  It was another study in ostentation….Proof positive that “more is more.”  It took a while to peruse.

After much questioning of the locals, we finally found the “Ancient Musical Instrument Museum.”  It was worth the search.  It was loaded with sackbuts (the grandfather of the trombone), cornettos (the grandfather of the trumpet), various string, woodwind and percussion instruments, as well as ophaclides (the grandfather of nothing special).

From there, we made our way to an Italian restaurant that had been touted to us by a student of mine named Andy.  The food was marvelous, as was the liter and a half of Orvietto that we had with it.  Needless to say, that ended our day.  We “poured” ourselves into the subway, and headed back to the hotel for a full night’s rest.

Our last day, Monday, was a bit of a “hurry up and wait” situation.  We packed, and checked out of the hotel, jumped a street car, which took us to a train, which connected us with a street car that took us ultimately to a cemetery that has a “musician’s corner.”  In this little nook are the graves of Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Strauss, and Mozart.  Standing in the midst of these giants I actually got a “strange vibe.”  It was really quite something to behold. On the way there, we went through the biggest church on town, the Church of St. Charles…Very impressive.  They allowed taking of pictures, as well as filming.  We of course took advantage of the situation in true “Tommy Tourist” fashion.  Now it was time to scurry back to the hotel via streetcar, train, and once again streetcar, so that we could wait for our ride to the airport to catch our plane home.

All in all, Vienna lived up to its reputation for art, music, food, drink, and great sights.  If you’re ever in the neighborhood, go there, you won’t be disappointed.