APRIL/MAY 2025 ASIA STORY PART 1

Spaghetti and rice, bacon and eggs on fried noodles, Chinese coffee, covering thousands of miles while thousands of feet above the earth, covering many miles on foot, and exploring the ocean bottom, are all a part of this narrative, as are Salamat Po and Jeepney. (more on that stuff later).

It’s a fourteen-hour flight from LAX to Manila. Thank goodness the Philippine Airlines flight attendants are “old school.” We were regaled with Cossak vodka, rigatoni a là Bolognese, a sandwich filled with some stuff that we couldn’t identify, but tasted good, topped off by “Famous Amos” chocolate chip cookies, along with sundry other goodies for good measure, which we enjoyed after our “post-vodka nap.”

Upon our arrival in Manila, a driver picked us up after our immigration mambo. The staff at the Fairmont Hotel treated us like visiting royalty. Absolutely no negativity. It’s so unlike so many of the hotels in our native land.

They gifted us with some great fruits, sweets, a basket that they created for us, and a chocolate cake. They even included a toy JEEPNEY. This is a JEEPNEY. As you can see, a JEEPNEY is like a stretch Jeep. This one is rather deluxe by normal JEEPNEY FOR HIRE standards. The ones on the street have a cloth awning for a top, and very little on the sides to prevent fallouts. From what we saw of them going up and down the streets, it appeared that they had bolts for shock absorbers. The passengers were being tossed around like popcorn kernels on the stove. Out of respect for our anatomy, we took a pass on riding in one. Nonetheless, here is the much fabled JEEPNEY in all of its glory.

After a good night’s rest, we got up, and turned on the tv to see some news. The first thing that we saw was a commercial for a store that advertises imitation (knock-off) audio equipment, including counterfeit Shure microphones, along with fake Fender, and other top name guitars….And they did it with pride! After this eye-opener, we headed out for our first Philippine meal. The pictures on the menu helped somewhat. But as we learned in China, American Chinese food is nothing like Chinese food in China. So it is with Philippino food in the Philippines.

After this less-than stellar start, we were off to the Ayala Museum, which houses art, sculptures, and the history of the Philippines. It seems that after the Portuguese Captain, Ferdinand Magellan discovered the Philippines in 1520, claimed it for Spain, got involved with some local power struggles, and got himself killed in 1521, it was almost all downhill for the Phillipinos, who were bounced around like ping-pong balls for the next five centuries by various European, and Asian, power-hungry, land-grabbing kingdoms, including the good old USA.

Meanwhile, one of the more well known Philippino artists was Fernando Amorsolo (1892-1972). Here are a couple of his renderings, sans combat.

After four hours of soaking up artistry, and history, it was time to head back to our hotel for some sustenance, where we were served one of the best lamb chop dinners we’ve ever had.
Following this foodfest, it was time to retire to our suite, pull the “blankeys” up to our chins, and stare at our eyelids for at least eight hours.

No visit to Manila would be complete without a tour of the town, which, due to its history is quite multifaceted. Just like every town has its “Downtown,” Manila is no exception. The traffic is, to put it mildly, pretty hectic. It’s rather like being caught in Midtown Manhattan at rush hour, but with very flexible law enforcement. The lane lines, like in so many other locales are merely suggestions, not really etched in paint. Lane changing signals are for amateurs, and newcomers. We asked our driver, Romeo, how drivers avoid colliding with each other. He replied without hesitation, “Mutual understanding.” Yeah. Try that in Midtown Manhattan.

Manila’s Chinatown, Binando, is a “must see, and taste.” We took a pass on the “DRUGS ‘R’ US” store here. We did, however, fall prey to the goodies shop. Yes. We needed “stuff!”

 

A quick sidenote: Manila has the world’s oldest Chinatown outside of China. This is good to know if you’re ever going to be on “Jeopardy.” Romeo’s knowledge of the places we covered is encyclopedic. As he wended our way through the traffic he kept up a near nonstop rap regarding the sights that we were going to see, such as Rizal Park, where Juan Rizal, (1861-1896), an ophthalmologist, and writer, who sought peaceful reforms against Spanish colonial rule, was executed by a firing squad. There are statues of JR, along with the firing squad. Strangely, he chose to be shot with his back turned toward the squad. His bravery, and sacrifice, sparked the Philippine Revolution, and boosted their national identity.

Another hero of the Philippines is Andres Bonafacio, who founded the Katipunan, a secret revolutionary society in 1892, whose goal was also to win Philippine independence from Spain by revolution. Two great heroes, with diametrically opposing methods to gain independence from Spain. Due to inner turmoil, Bonafacio was court martialed and subsequently executed. If you see the John Wayne movie, “BACK TO BATAAN,” you will see references to Bonafacio and the Katipunan, along with the village of Balintawak.

As usual, when prowling around a country that is new to us, where English is sometimes spoken, and sometimes not, we picked up a bit of the local patois, such as “Salamat Po,” which in Tagala, the native language of the Philippines, is Thank You. It seems that “Thank You” always elicits a friendly smile, regardless of the circumstance.

Meanwhile, back on the street, the constant weaving in and out, and split-hair near misses were like something choreographed for a Steve McQueen movie. All the while, Romeo kept up his rap about each topic with great aplomb, not missing a cue, turn, or stop. Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride could learn a few things from these Kamikaze pilots in training.

Speaking of Kamikaze pilots, and the Japanese occupation of the Philippines, Romeo took us to one of the sites of human horror foisted on the civilians, along with Allied Forces POWs. It’s amazing what some people can conjure to create pain and suffering under the guise of “military operations.” The Bataan Death March, which was a forced march from Mariveles, Bataan, to Pampanga, a distance of over 100 kilometers was a study in barbarism, wherein more than 60,000 Filipinos and 10,000 American prisoners were subjected to inhumane treatment, causing the deaths of over 7,000 prisoners, who died from beatings, bayonets, and bullets along the way. More would die of suffocation in the cramped trains that transported the prisoners from Pampanga to Capas, Tarlac. Strangely, the Japanese military considered those who surrendered unworthy of life. Yet they, the Japanese armed forces, surrendered by the thousands, to go on to live prosperous and happy lives. So much for honor among warriors.

After “Island Hopping” by the Allied Forces, capped off by the Battle of Leyte Gulf, the largest naval battle of WWII, President Sergio Osmña, and Resident Commissioner Carlos P. Romulo returned with General Douglas MacArthur, accompanied by 650 ships and four army divisions, who fulfilled the promise he, MacArthur, made when he was forced to leave the Philippines, “I shall return.” Allied forces re-occupied Manila in February, 1945, and liberated POWs in the University of Santo Tomas. Sadly, the Battle for Manila raged on for another month, until 3 March 1945, resulting in over 100,000 dead civilians and a basically destroyed city.

After soaking up some more of the history of Manila, it was time to hit the streets again. The wires that you see below have caused many fires in town. But they remain just as they are. So much for civic safety.

It was at this point that we both realized that we hadn’t had breakfast, or anything else to eat. Thus it was that we decided to try the food-court in the Landmark store that was located across the street from our hotel. The array of restaurants had something for any desire, no matter how “foreign.” We first gave the Korean restaurant a shot. Among other items that we tried was kimchi alá Manila style. In other words, cole slaw with some spices tossed in. All in all, their attempt at Korean cuisine was “unique.” For sake of propriety, I’ll leave it at that. Now it was time to do a bit of shopping for “room supplies.” For Vodka, we were shown to the liquor department. Totally logical. Here comes the hook. To continue in our effort to spread the wealth, we had to first pay for the booze, for which we got a receipt that we were told to hang onto until we finished shopping. We then picked up a few more goodies, and were directed by a smiling cop to a “senior citizen discount cash register.” GREAT!! Not great. I didn’t have a government note proving my age. I asked if a note from my late mother would suffice. NO GO. Okay. So I’m a senior citizen who pays retail in Manila. At this point, we decided to head back to our hotel sanctum to do our cold-water face and hands rinse to get the “road scuz” off of us, get into our “evening clothes,” and relax, as we sampled the bottle of talent, for which we paid retail, because we just “look so young!” And so ended a hard day at play.

After such a challenging day, we decided to start this day with a couple of hours in the hotel pool, followed by some television time. Apparently Manila doesn’t care to handle certain words. Many of the sentences were bleeped out. We capped this off with a wonderful dinner and show that featured one 12-string guitar, one 6-string guitar, a couple of percussionists, and a mandolin to back up the singers and dancers. It was all beautifully done. At one point they invited audience participation. This was all too tempting for Naomi, who, after a few glasses of talent and courage, joined in with the dancers who were doing a bamboo version of hop-scotch/jump rope.

After Naomi’s performance with them, they invited both of us to be in a picture with them. They had their costumes. We had ours. I’m sorry that I only have these photos. While Naomi was doing her Tinikling, dance routine with the dancers, I only videoed the “Philippino version of the June Taylor Dancers Plus Naomi.”

The buffet was chock full of Philippino goodies that were strange to our palates, but good nonetheless. Yes. We not only explore new sights and sounds, but also new, to us, flavors. All in all, it was a great evening.

After a good night’s sleep, we were off to try the restaurant that everyone had been telling us about, located in the Landmark Shopping Center. Yes. The world famous, in Manila, JOLLIBEE, where you can get chicken and rice, vegetables and rice, and, most famous of all, PASTA AND RICE.

Every cab driver, cop, and hotel employee, with whom we spoke, extolled the virtues of this Manila eatery. They were not joking. It’s okee dokee. Lunch for the two of us came to $4.00. No wonder it’s so popular. We also hit some of the other Landmark eateries that were a bit more balanced nutrition-wise. Naomi was having a great time watching my blood sugar soar as I just looked at the menus.

For you “Godfather Fans,” there are also Philippino Cannolis, called Krones. “LOUIE PRIMA LIVES!” These ribs on sticks next to them are just to let you know that man does not live by carbs alone. They are flavored with “BANANA KETCHUP,” and are nothing short of excellent.

Of course there was the obligatory fried chicken, which wasn’t bad either. There was also pasta laced with either sausages, or hot dogs. It was difficult to be sure of which was used. Oscar Mayer was apparently out of town. After this culinary cruise, it was time for some serious shopping. Yes. Banana chips, imitation Fritos, and other bagged and salted treats. It was now time to take leave of this everything emporium.

After a while, it struck us that almost everywhere we went, we encountered live music. Even in a small restaurant there was a strolling guitar player. This fellow wasn’t goofing off. He played quite well, and didn’t get in the way of the patrons.

Bearing in mind the plethora of rice dishes served, this was a tough one to figure out.

Back to Jeepnies for a moment. Here’s a giant, or stretch Jeepney. I guess that’s for the whole band, or family.

As we were leaving the Landmark Department Store, we encountered another combo. This one was playing a bit of jazz, mixed with some pop tunes, featuring a female vocalist. Once again, live music, piano, bass, drums, and flute, all of whom swung.

Meanwhile back at our hotel, we were treated to the sight of some well-attired teenagers prepping for their junior prom. How about that. Omnipresent live music, and clean-cut, well-mannered teens, all in one area of Manila. Who could ask for more?

It was now time for dinner and packing. As we were checking out of our hotel, we were presented with a lovely farewell gift package. Yes. Manila is definitely a worthwhile stop, regardless of your desires. And the Fairmont is a class-act.

One thing, not to be missed is a ride on a bamboo bicycle. Yes. A bicycle made of bamboo. I know. I didn’t believe it either. Nonetheless, here is. No. It’s not a Schwinn.

Our next destination was Jakarta, Indonesia, which will be coming up in our next installment, which, hopefully won’t be too far off. At this point, I must confess the “why” of the tardiness for our travelogues. It’s difficult to write about funzies while recuperating from surgeries, and other problems, which sadly occupied much of our home-time. Worry not. There will be more to come, as I said, hopefully, in the not-too-distant future.