APRIL/MAY 2025 ASIA STORY PART 2

After a four-hour flight from Manila, we found ourselves in Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia, shortly after midnight. Our education regarding the rules of the locals began immediately upon disembarking from our plane. The first thing that we learned was that not even the local constabulary follow the posted rules. Yes. A group of uniformed cops were gathered together smoking (tobacco) beneath a very large “NO SMOKING” sign. Ah, the virtues of strict law enforcement, and untarnished health standards. Our next bit of acculturation was shortly after we were told that tipping was not allowed. We asked some of the “stand-abouts” a few feet outside of the baggage claim area, where to hire a taxi. Along with being given numerous and contradictory directions, each one of our “helpers” began begging for tips. We dutifully followed the law. After schlepping our luggage to half a dozen bogus pick up points, we found the real one, where we were told that we had to purchase our “visas” to be here in the capital of Indonesia. Finally we got ensconced in our hotel room, where we were told that there was no ice. Being the seasoned traveler that I am, I offered them my recipe for it.

Up in time for breakfast, we soon realized that we hadn’t left Manila very far behind. Yes. Noodles, and/or rice were the staples on the buffet menu.

As usual, we met some interesting folks while dining. “And where are you from?” seemed to be the main topic of conversation in this hotel restaurant. Imagine that, in a hotel situated close to the local airport. Will wonders never cease?

Following this culinary caper, it was time to head out to the airport. Taking the only shuttle available, we arrived at the airport four hours early. At this point, one would logically ask, “Why were you in Jakarta for only one night?” Good question. I hope that the following will answer it well enough to make sense to anyone else seeking to travel around this part of our planet.

Our main objective was a not-too-well known island resort in Indonesia’s Raja Ampat. In Bahasa Indonesia, Raja Ampat means “four kings,” named for a myth in which four royals were hatched from eggs to rule over the largest islands. Yay for mythology! Incredible vegetation carpets the islands, most of which are ringed with white powder-sand beaches that look like they have been photoshopped. According to Mark Erdmann, the Conservation International’s vice president for Asia-Pacific marine programs, “It’s the planet’s marine biodiversity hot spot.” In the 17,760 square -mile marine national park that surrounds the island chain, 75% of the world’s coral species and 1,653 species of fish have been recorded, dwarfing even Australia’s Great Barrier Reef in terms of biodiversity. Raja Ampat has managed to stay relatively pristine, in my opinion, because it’s not easy to get to, as you will see. Naomi and I have snorkeled the Red Sea, the Caribbean, Tahiti, Hawaii, and the Cook Islands, but Raja Ampat is the heavy-weight champion for biodiversity, seclusion, and beauty. Here is how we made it to this Pacific jewel. After our mini-stay in Jakarta, we took a flight to Ujung Pangupg, a city located on the island of Makassar, which is the capital of South Sulawesi, Indonesia, and the largest city in Eastern Indonesia. It’s also a historical and vital commercial and transport hub. Hence the stop. I don’t know if it was for gas, or what. Nonetheless, it was a short stop. We then continued our nine-hour-in-the-air trek to the island of Sorong. When we first got off of the plane, all I could think of was that this island was aptly named. It just seemed “So Wrong.”

In an attempt to kick-start what brain cells we could still muster, we found a coffee shop perfectly named, “Tana Java,” which was operated by a young lady named Cindy, who created a high octane double espresso for Naomi, to which she, Naomi, added sugar and cream to calm it down. We, of course, learned “Terima Kasih,” from Cindy, which means, “Thank you.” Yes. More smiles and some giggles. After walking around for another hour, and seeing the effect that the java brew had on Naomi, we decided to return to Cindy’s lair and get one for me, which left us both speaking “Evelyn Wood” speed English.

NAOMI AT THE “SCENE OF THE CRIME”

Still abuzz from Cindy’s high-octane coffee, we were off to board the ferry, undoubtedly the filthiest scow to ever float the seven seas. The toilet was a hole in the floor that emptied out directly into the sea. The crew totally disregarded the “NO SMOKING” signs, making the closed-windows seating area an incredible challenge to get a decent breath of air. After two hours, we finally made it to our connection for a speedboat ride to our ultimate destination, AGUSTA ECO LODGE RESORT.

This was our ferry to the speedboat. Don’t let the bright paint on the outside fool you. It’s a scum bucket. Next to it is the speedboat that we rode to the AGUSTA ECO LODGE RESORT.

This is a row of Indonesian residences/businesses. They don’t want for colors.

Here’s one of the many sites seen on the way to AELR.

Yes. There was even a Chinese Junk!

AGUSTA ECO LODGE RESORT, mere words can’t do its natural beauty justice. It’s owned and operated by an Italian couple, Mara and Marco, who are a class act, friendly, helpful, and devoted fans of Louie Prima, which, after they saw my website, one would think that we were traveling royalty. To make matters even more wonderful, there’s no television. Just the crew of the AELR, and the guests. Nothing but natural sights, sounds and foods prepared by a staff who is dedicated to the comfort and happiness of their guests…Us! Yes. We got to use “Terima Kasih” a lot! Lots of smiles all around. There are only ten or twelve cottages/bungalows on the island. Our “shower room” was adjacent to our living quarters. Yes. Showering al fresco was the order of the day. From the noises that we heard, the birds and other tree dwellers must have gotten a daily eye-full. This would be an exhibitionist’s paradise. After a day or two, we took it in stride. Or, as it might be said, “We went native.”

The cabin itself is a bit below rustic. The outdoor shower spews warm water when it’s ready to, and not before. We grabbed it when we could. The lighting inside might be considered by some as romantic. However, after a long day of snorkeling, and exploring the island on foot, one might want to simply curl up with a book and read by adequate lighting. Nonetheless, we made do with the illumination at hand.

This is another view of our cottage. Home sweet home.

Yes. The sand is that white and powdery fine.

Keeping with the Indonesian tradition, noodles and rice were served with every order, morning, noon and night. They too had some pretty high octane coffee. Once again, we found ourselves speaking faster than the speed of sound. After day one of sounding like auctioneers, we kinda slowed things down a bit with cream, sugar, and anything else that we figured would help.

These guys were there to greet us at the dining room entrance before every meal. They never moved. At first, I thought that they were just tense….The coffee, as I said, is pretty heavy duty.

We didn’t think that we would make much use of the swimming pool, but it was a great way to relax, as well as get some of the beach sand off of our bodies. Here it is, illuminated by the beautiful moon. It’s not terribly large, simply because there aren’t that many guests at one time. We had to watch out for dive-bombing birds.

Besides the omnipresent noodles and rice, they also have some very different fruits. These little guys, Pi Sang, pronounced pee san, look like just regular bananas, but they have a very different flavor and texture.

Just in case you thought I was kidding, here is breakfast. The eggs and bacon are beneath the omnipresent noooooooodles.

Also on the buffet/menu is a wonderful array of fresh fruits, such as dragon fruit, and papaya, all fresh and delicious. With Naomi’s upbeat attitude, and our combined passion for new stuff to explore, we made it into a very good time.

Every now and then, reality has to raise its ugly head. Yes. Laundry needed to be done. There were no washing machines for guests to use. Thus we gave our clothes to the powers that be to be done. Simple. Right? Not right. There were no electric dryers on the island. So it took three days for our laundry to be returned to us. As I said earlier, it’s an exclusive island. This was the price for one load. €79.00. CASH ONLY. Exclusivity. Hi ho and so it goes.

Rather than simply going from breakfast into the ocean, we decided to do a “Robinson Crusoe” most mornings. Yes folks. We explored this incredible island from the top of the sand. Basically we would walk in one direction to the halfway point around the island, and then back. It was thus that we found some rather incredible sights. We had seen Hermit Crabs in other climes. But not the size of these. No. This is not a photoshop magnification.

Unlike the tree climbers in Hawaii, and elsewhere, the folks out here use no ropes, or anything else to ascend the palm tree trunks.

As you can see, they cut divots into the tree trunks, and then sallee forth, as they hold on tight. Some of the trees even sprout hair.

On the left, these are Hermit Crabs “Roughing It” without their borrowed shells. Next to them is a Coconut Crab on a Coconut Palm. Yes. They are that big.

Encountering a couple of these big-shelled creatures during an otherwise casual evening stroll on the beach can be a real eye-opener, as well as a mood breaker, and pulse flogger. At this point we decided to take refuge in our “Little Grass Shack,” and ponder what tomorrow would bring in this jewel of Nature. We didn’t have long to wait. Breakfast is served from 6:30 to 9:30, and not a moment earlier or later. I guess that even in paradise there must be rules and schedules.

For every beach, there is an ocean. Where there is an ocean, there are sights to behold that are obscured from the “land lubbers.” This is where we break out our cameras and snorkels, and start our daily prowls in search of the underwater treasures that only pure prowess, and/or pure luck allow us to witness. Later on, a group of apparently dedicated snorkelers and SCUBA divers were having dinner at the same time as we, extolling the virtues of their all-day excursion in search of aquatic life. It was really quite something to listen to their stories, until the next day, when one of the revelers had over-slept, and simply had to make-do with the denizens of the not-so-deep that our beach had to offer. He quite unabashedly declared that the “pickings” were just as plentiful as the multi-hour trip upon which he had embarked the previous day. So there they were with their pounds of equipment, hours spent boating out to the “happy hunting grounds,” and seeing that which they could have enjoyed, along with Naomi and me, right here in their front yard, as you can see below.

I’m sorry. We didn’t stop to ask the names of the various species that we caught on film. Not really on film. We use digital cameras. Nonetheless, a good time was had by all.

Having made friends with the waiters, waitresses, and cooks, I asked if I could make my own Aglio Olio. This is basically pasta, with a sauce of olive oil and garlic, seasoned just with salt and pepper. They allowed me to do it, and marveled at the ease it was to prepare. Following this, it was open season for swapping recipes. The way that they make a “simple tomato soup,” (fresh tomatoes, onions, garlic and spices) as well as their version of a pomodoro sauce, which is quite similar to their tomato soup, is wonderful. The secret is in the portions, which they add by hand. NO CHEATING WITH MEASURING DEVICES!

Meanwhile back at the laundry caper: they delivered it to our room while Naomi was in the al fresco shower. As I said, “We went native!”

Being staunch Louie Prima fans, Mara and Marco went to my website. Finding some of my original music, they began playing some of it at dinner time, while pointing me out. It was a nice little ego trip. Being situated as they are, practically everything has to be imported. This is one of their transports.

The real corker came shortly before we left the island. Yes. They decided to celebrate Naomi’s birthday at dinner time with all who were present. Dinner consisted of pizza, shrimp appetizer, mango sorbet, and Naomi’s birthday cake, which was devoured by all, accompanied by a few rousing choruses of Happy Birthday in their native tongue, and English. What a gasser.

After a few more days of snorkeling, hiking, and relaxing “island style,” it was time to pack, and thank our hosts, and their cadre for a most enjoyable, and unforgettable experience. Yes. Once again Terima Kasih came into play.

Here are some of the cast of characters who made this epoch what it was.

It wasn’t easy to bid farewell to these wonderful people, and their environs. If it is written in the cards, we just might return. One can never get enough noooooodles.