EUROPE 2025 STORY PART 1

Dubrovnik, a Croatian word, I believe, meaning NO ELEVATORS, ONLY LOTS OF STAIRS. Cori, an Italian word, I once again believe, meaning TINY CORKSCREW STREETS WITH NO ELEVATORS, ONLY LOTS OF STAIRS. Frankfurt, a town that was named for a most necessary snack at a baseball game. And last, but certainly not least, Prague, or Praha as the locals spell it, meaning A TOWN WITH UNLIMITED CULTURAL HAPPENINGS. Yes. This is how, and where Naomi set us up to celebrate my eightieth birthday among very familiar friends, and places that we had not yet visited.

To begin, our first realm for roaming was Dubrovnik, a city that, depending upon whom you trust for information, dates back to the 7th Century. It was originally a protectorate of the Byzantine Empire, and then the Republic of Venice. Between the 14th and 19th centuries, Dubrovnik gained and maintained its sovereignty. Its natural harbors, along the Adriatic Sea, made it a cradle of maritime trade, which added substantially to its coffers. Through the years, its sovereignty was bounced around like a ping pong ball. During the Napoleonic Wars, Dubrovnik was occupied by the French troops. In the early 19th to 20th century, it was part of the Kingdom of Dalmatia within the Austrian Empire. Strangely, we saw no dalmatian dogs on the local fire trucks. “How soon they forget!” Soon thereafter, it became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. During WW II, it became part of the Axis as a puppet state, before being reincorporated into Socialist Republic of Croatia, in Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. In 1991, during the Croatian War of Independence, Dubrovnik was besieged by the Yugoslav People’s Army for seven months, and was pretty messed up by the ensuing shelling. ENOUGH HISTORY! It has since undergone massive repairs and restorations. Thus, it is now an incredibly beautiful city, full of places for videoing, and picture taking, as well as just enjoying the many sites, and sounds of the local music ensembles playing everything from the pens of Bach and Beethoven to the Beatles, with some Gershwin thrown in to “keep the local musoids honest.”

THIS IS A VIEW OF ONE OF THE HARBORS NOW FOR THE RICH AND SHAMELESS.

If you’re going to be staying for a while in a medieval walled city, you might as well stay in the center. Oh what the heck. Stay in the palace. Yes. Naomi booked us into the Hotel Dominus Little Palace, which is “smack dab in the middle of town.” That’s the good news. Here comes the hook. Our “crib” was forty-one steps up from the street. Yes. And forty-one steps down to the street. During the day, it was rather daunting. In the evening, it was more a test of courage, and a few cocktails before beginning the descent. This is a view from our room in the daytime. Put away your skateboards.

This is a view from our room in the evening. No.
This was not designed for amateur drunks.

When it rains, it’s a virtual waterfall that would rival the Iguazu Falls in Brazil. Along this thoroughfare, is a veritable “restaurant row,” featuring fresh seafoods, Italian foods, and just about any other bill of fare your palate might desire. The greeters, waiters, and waitresses are well versed in the art of “spoiling” their customers in just about any language that is in current use on our planet. These people are pros, as are the chefs. There was absolutely no dish that we tried that was just okay. Everything that came across our tables was outstanding.

To begin, a wonderful Greek salad. Our sea bass, cooked for hours in a crust of salt, to be served, deboned, by a master waiter.

It’s not often in today’s world that I get to raise a cheer for a waiter. But this was no ordinary waiter. His demeanor, along with his menu advice, put him in another tier. Boris is the best.

This is Boris preparing our sea bass. No. He’s not an “extra” from a
James Bond movie. He’s just real good with a blade.

Once again, we found a land that is not big on clothes dryers, as you can see.

Back to food for a moment. When was the last time you ordered an octopus burger?
This restaurant was just around the corner from our apartment.

Yes. Dubrovnik is a “Walled City,” as you can see. We took this shot from the cable car that goes up the adjacent mountain.

I guess that one might say that if you’re thinking of attacking Dubrovnik, bring a lunch. It’s going to take you quite a while.

As I said above, the food throughout the city is wonderful, and made to order. Thus, here we are awaiting lunch. Dubrovnik is not a town to be rushed through. Take your time. Enjoy the moment.

Being Jewish in various parts of Europe has always had its ups and downs. As you can see, various decrees were issued at various times. Thank goodness, we were visiting during a more “tolerant” era.

Doctors couldn’t simply set up their practice, and hang out their shingles.
Permission had to be granted by the state.

Here is a pharmacy where the nostrums of the time were prepared and distributed.

I guess this was their guide book in the 13th Century. As it was said in
the movie, “Sergeant York,” “Don’t wanna go agin the book.”

Yes. These buildings behind us have withstood the test of time, and combat.

When you’re in a walled city, you build up, not out.

As in other parts of Europe, there were streets assigned to those of the Jewish faith.
This sign means “JEW STREET.” Not unlike Germany, Spain, and Poland, et cetera.

On a lighter note, this fountain is where everyone can refill their bottles
with fresh drinking water. Yes. We did it too!

Inside one of the museums, we found this “Dyslexic Piano.”

After all of this walking a gawking, it was once again getting “hungry out.”
What better way to satisfy a food craving than a healthy portion of pasta
with frutti di mar?

Yes. Once again Naomi found a public fountain to fill our water bottles.

This is a Chilean jazz pianist, Diego Ortiz, who has a number of friends in
common with us in Santiago, Chile. Yes. We did hang out, and swap
stories. Jazz bridges all.

This is us awaiting our ration of the fuel of the day. ESPRESSO!

Thus armed and wired, we were off to the FRANCISCAN MONASTERY MUSEUM, where we found some interesting music manuscripts like this SONATA FOR TWO VIOLINS, VIOLA AND HARPSICHORD by Sir Arcangelo Corelli in Venice 1705. I know what you’re thinking, “So what has he written lately?” This may have been one of his big hits. Remember, this was done before PAYOLA.

During the Nazi takeover, this is what every Jew in Dubrovnik was
required to wear. Keeping in step with the Nazis, there is a list of every Jew
who was murdered during this period.

This is a shot of the interior of the Synagogue in Dubrovnik.

This is a partial list of Jews who were murdered during this period.

We saw this banister support in the staircase of the Synagogue here, and thought it should be included for its uniqueness, as well as a true helping hand.

We found this print in one of the many stores along the main promenade.
It reminded us of a Walmart Escapee.

Leave it to Naomi to find wet laundry hanging just a few meters from the city center….Or as Petula Clark would sing, “Downtown.”

Our house is the one with the orange-tiled roof.

This poster must have been created with Naomi in mind.

Yes. The streets are narrow, but beautiful, especially at night.

There is no shortage of cold cuts and/or cheese in Dubrovnik.

With these two photos, we bid farewell to Dubrovnik a city of stairs and stares.